When you read about Van Vihar, there's also mention of Ram Sagar Wildlife Sanctuary and in print, it sounds like they might be somehow interconnected. Given the distance we'd already covered and that empty lakes (Ram Sagar...sagar meaning lake) are occasionally hard to locate we just assumed we'd passed it. Wrong!

Leaving Agra behind was something of a relief – even though we love the Taj Mahal and the Baby Taj, it has to be said that the hawkers and shopkeepers in Uttar Pradesh seem somewhat hardcore when compared with their Rajasthani counterparts. I think most people would agree – it's one of the frustrating things about travelling, and eventually you have to develop an equally agressive brush off technique.