Traditionally, the monsoon months in India are July and August - refreshing rains sweep across the country, easing summer temperatures and reviving the landscape. September flourishes and everyone prepares for the influx of visitors, marked by the moderate temperatures from October through to March. In Rajasthan, a predominantly desert state the monsoon rains are much anticipated, the life source for agriculture on which its people depend. In the six years leading up to 2010, the annual monsoons had been something of a disappointment leading to scarce supplies and even more than usual revealing dried up river beds and empty lakes. Vast swathes of land revelaed themselves where once massive bodies of water had stood. And so with great trepidation, everyone waited for the 2010 monsoon.

Ranakpur is without a doubt one of our favorite places in Rajasthan. Or should I say our favourite areas, as Ranakpur itself is not even really a village or a town – just a stop off point along the main road running between Jodhpur and Udaipur. It's a blink and you've missed it sort of place, and apart from the world-famous Jain temple complex (which is an important pilgrimage site) you might be forgiven for thinking it wasn't up to much.

We happened to mention to Mr Singh, the owner of Deogarh Mahal our mission to explore the region further, heading in the direction of Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur. By the time we left, we had in our possession a detailed hand-drawn map of all the places that we simply should not miss along the way. It turned out to be one very important piece of paper!

When you read about Van Vihar, there's also mention of Ram Sagar Wildlife Sanctuary and in print, it sounds like they might be somehow interconnected. Given the distance we'd already covered and that empty lakes (Ram Sagar...sagar meaning lake) are occasionally hard to locate we just assumed we'd passed it. Wrong!