After the long drive yesterday, a hearty breakfast was exactly what we needed. We're in Karauli and our hotel is the home of the Maharajah of Karauli – a very jovial and engaging gentleman who we were introduced to once we'd finished feasting. He's from the old school and although the rooms of the property are undergoing modernisation, much of the rest is frozen in time. Perhaps not everyone's cup of tea – staying in a living museum, but then sometimes you just have to try something different.

When you read about Van Vihar, there's also mention of Ram Sagar Wildlife Sanctuary and in print, it sounds like they might be somehow interconnected. Given the distance we'd already covered and that empty lakes (Ram Sagar...sagar meaning lake) are occasionally hard to locate we just assumed we'd passed it. Wrong!