Sariska Tiger Reserve

Sariska is currently home to three tigers with another two due to be moved from Ranthambore during the 2010 monsoon season. Whilst official figures seem to vary wildly between 15 and 40, Ranthambore is certainly home to more tigers than Sariska at present despite the core reserve being a third larger at Sariska. In 2005 the government was finally forced to admit that poaching had wiped out the tiger population and that said, on our last visit to Sariska we did see langur and rhesus macaque monkeys (including one riding a Sambar deer like a jockey), peacocks, sand grouse (with funny little sand grouse chicks) and nilgai all within the space of about 45 minutes. Sariska is also less commercial than Ranthambore so whilst your chances of seeing a tiger might be less by sheer dint of numbers, your chances of spotting other tourists are also reduced.

Deeg - the water palace

The Water Palace at Deeg once was the playground of the Raja Suraj Mal, with pavillions laid out around neat gardens, fountains and two large water tanks, all designed to keep the royal family cool in the hot summer months. Whilst the fountains and water tanks are still in existence and apparently operational, the bad monsoons of the last couple of years have taken toll and the water palace is now all but dry bar a small puddle of water left next to the Jal Mahal and the tank that supports the village. The reason being that the Agra Canal that fed the water palace has completely dried out and officials state nothing can be done in the current climate. The water line is clearly visible above the lower two floors of the Jal Mahal, originally designed that way in order to keep the rooms cooler and the gardens are now regularly watered in order to maintain their lush green appearance and are quite pretty, even in high summer. The buildings themselves are now all abandoned except for the roosts of bats but are interesting to explore at your own pace and imagine what the palace once looked like. From the water palace there is a picturesque view across the tank to the fort and whilst the buildings and gardens are pretty enough, without the fountains and canals flowing with water the water palace has lost its unique selling point for visitors.

Bharatpur - the Lohagarh Fort

The Lohagarh (Iron) Fort in Bharatpur was built by Maharaja Suraj Mal in the 18th Century and stands on an artificial island, separated from the surrounding town by a deep moat. The fort withstood attacks by the Mughals and several by the British but now has basically been left to decay. Inside the once sturdy looking fort are three palaces, gently falling apart and although one now contains a government museum, this too feels like its been abandoned to its fate with a sad and dusty collection of hunting trophies, weapons and family photographs upstairs. The Jain sculpture gallery and the original hammam with some of the original carvings and frescos are reasonably interesting and at Rs.3 entrance, its hardly breaking the bank! Overall, if you're not interested in birds, then Bharatpur's historical sites alone aren't really worth detouring to see.

Bharatpur and Birds

The main reason to go to Bharatpur is the Keoladeo National Park, previously know as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, so if you're not into birds in a big way, this might be a location to skip! The park itself is 29 km2 so although you can only drive through it at certain times of the day, it is possible to take a cycle rickshaw, hire a bicycle or walk through the park easily and take your time bird-spotting. It's also worth noting that the map you're given as part of the entrance fee isn't all that comprehensive but keep going and you'll find your way soon enough. There are 230 known species of birds in the park, ranging from kingfishers and flamingos to the rare Siberian Crane, but, like tigers, there's no guarantee you'll see one. There are other animals in the park such as Sambar Deer and Indian Pythons too but birds are the main focus. The park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985 thanks to the number rare species of birds seen throughout the years, many of which are now sadly extinct. Most of the birds are migratory from much colder climes including China and Siberia so the best time to see them is during the winter months. You'll definitely need binoculars and make sure to pack mosquito repellent due to the marshy areas! In Keoladeo National Park, its worth mentioning that without a good monsoon, the number of birds there, even during the winter months drops as many of the migratory birds are aquatic. Since 2007 Bharatpur has had minimal monsoons and at present the park is much drier than it was, meaning both animal and bird numbers have dropped, making rarer bird sightings even less likely.