When you read about Van Vihar, there's also mention of Ram Sagar Wildlife Sanctuary and in print, it sounds like they might be somehow interconnected. Given the distance we'd already covered and that empty lakes (Ram Sagar...sagar meaning lake) are occasionally hard to locate we just assumed we'd passed it. Wrong!

So when we came to a junction with an old pumping station and small palace-like building, and then found a lane tucked at one side, it was a forgone conclusion that we'd have to investigate. I don't think any of use quite expected what we found at the end of this particular trail, but it's definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far.

So, we're driving along the banks of what used to be a lake, expansive riverbed and countryside to the left, small farms and agriculture on the right. A camel train crossed our path and decided to stop to pose for pictures, various herds of sheep, goats, water buffalo and cows were unceremoniously herded out of our way as we continued on the narrow, but fairly decent track. That is until the tarmac just stopped, leaving us staring at a few green hillocks and with nowhere to go, or so you might think. For us this kind of event is like an open invitation.

Deciding to go further on foot, it was only about 150m before we found ourselves in the midst of a pastoral scene that could have quite easily been somewhere in the Lake District. It was a surreal experience, having no indicators that you're actually still in India. Grass grew on a hilly landscape that dipped down to a small body of water. The sky was perfect blue with fluffy white clouds, a stork stood silently on a small peninsular and a heron flew overhead. The sun reflecting on the water and cool breeze finished off the idyllic scene. All we were missing was a checkered blanket and a Fortnum & Mason hamper and we could have stayed there all afternoon. We contented ourselves instead with that thoroughly British boys' pastime of skimming stones across water.

Back in the car there seemed like no hurry to get to Karauli, our overnight stop and although the last hour seemed the longest, and we had been on the road for the best part of 11 hours (not one we'll be recommending) every minute was pure fun. Ending the night with dinner under a clear sky, lights out and all trying to find Orion's belt, it was another perfect ending to a perfect day.