24 March 2011

The rain in India, falls mainly...

The hills around Ranakpur turn a luscious green after the monsoon.

Traditionally, the monsoon months in India are July and August - refreshing rains sweep across the country, easing summer temperatures and reviving the landscape. September flourishes and everyone prepares for the influx of visitors, marked by the moderate temperatures from October through to March. In Rajasthan, a predominantly desert state the monsoon rains are much anticipated, the life source for agriculture on which its people depend. In the six years leading up to 2010, the annual monsoons had been something of a disappointment leading to scarce supplies and even more than usual revealing dried up river beds and empty lakes. Vast swathes of land revelaed themselves where once massive bodies of water had stood. And so with great trepidation, everyone waited for the 2010 monsoon.

The rains came, a little late - we noted the arrival of the "monsoon bird" in Devgarh, the creatures arrival from Madagascar indicating the imminent downpour. And sure enough, a few days later the rains came - even though this was in late June. The real monsoons with its characteristic sudden sheeting rain, descending like a thick curtain and reducing visibility to virtually zero, came a few weeks later. Every day brought chaos to the streets of cities as inhabitants seemed to be completely unprepared for the deluge - perhaps not having been faced with one in so many years. The streets of Jaipur were inundated and from one hour to the next turned from tarmac roads to murky tributaries in a massive delta. As the rains appeared on the far horizon each night and the thunder rumbled above, we watched in awe, waiting for the certain power outage that would take place in the next few moments.

So passed August, the occasional day or two respite as the rains thinned out, but continued nevertheless...right the way in to September.

With the actual monsoon over by early October it was fantastic to see Rajasthan still green, so late in the year. Previous monsoons ensured that by the time international visitors arrived in Rajasthan, much of the landscape had been restored to its arid self. However, there was a surprise in store. Inexplicably we experienced occasional rain in October, November, December, January, February and even March. Totally unheard of and a surprise and shock to many in the tourism sector. Whether a product of global warming or not, these freak weather conditions call in to question whether the traditional tourist season (mid-October to mid-March) would remain so. Even for those arriving from freezing temperatures back in Europe found November and December evenings "nippy" and for those of use who had been in Rajasthan for a longer period, well, we dug out sweaters and thermals and scoured stores for heaters. A little drastic? With temperatures hitting 50°C in summer lows of 5-6°C comes as something of a shock. Plus, Indian architecture lends itself to keeping the heat out of a building - which means that even the daytime sun never seems to break the chill inside.

Depending on your capacity to withstand the heat, it seems that the months of April May, June and September are actually the better months to visit Rajasthan. They are certainly the best months to take advantage of the many outdoor pools at various luxury hotels! As temperatures climb through the "off season" there is definitely a different atmosphere - much more laid back, the streets less crowded as people prefer the shade. And if you're escaping a mild summer in Europe and in need of restorative sunshine, then look no further.

Even those traditional monsoon months have their attraction, between spectacular bursts of rain the sun brings heat that is soothed by cool monsoon breezes.

We're positively encouraging our clients to look outside the traditional seasons and to pick a time when their own experience of Rajasthan will be tuned to their requirements. We can't guarantee sun or predict the rains - but we do know how either extremes of weather can affect your trip, positively or negatively. We're also tuned in to the sharp variations in pricing that can increase your level of luxury for the same budget, during the months which, for now, remain as the low season.

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