15 March 2011
Not just the golden triangle
Yes, there is so much to see in Rajasthan, so much to do, so many fantastic locations... and still, we decided to go a little further beyond. Equally amazing and giving our clients the essential highlights of North India, Delhi, Agra and Varanasi are fantastic additions to a Rajasthan itinerary. Given the distances and modes of transport, it's often a little tricky to piece everything together in a trip of less than two weeks – but our latest tour, THE NORTH manages to do exactly that with its up-tempo pace and our selection of some of the most luxurious stays in India.
Flying in to Delhi to start your trip gives you relatively easy access to Varanasi (flying) and Agra (by car) before travelling on in to Rajasthan. All three cities are wildly different and provide yet another contrast to your experience of Rajasthan.
Delhi, of course, is huge. The streets can be very crowded, traffic is hectic, but every where you look there's something new to be discovered. The history of the city is represented through the numerous monuments (from Mughal to British Raj) and temples, and the old city center with its vibrant bazaars, the narrow streets and alley ways. And at the same time there's the modern architecture. From high rise buildings signifying anything from corporate headquarters to international hotel chains, through to the tranquility and stark design of the Baha Lotus Temple. Street vendors set up their stalls in front of designer shops, tuk-tuks and rickshaws drive alongside the latest models from BMW or Mercedes, people in expensive business suits buy snacks prepared on a simple wood fire on the street. You can't be anything but amazed about the absolute contradictions and heady mixture of old and new.
Then there is Varanasi - this ancient city is bursting with history and reverence. You never really know whether it's a buzz of excitement or spirituality, but something pervades the air unlike anywhere else. The holy river Ganges attracts thousands of people throughout the year; pilgrims come to perform their ritual bathing for purification, mourners bring bodies to be cremated, visitors from all over the world converge to experience the extraordinary intensity that the city creates. Every day life in Varanasi is fascinating, as thousands of inhabitants are crammed in to tiny spaces – a three-thousand year old city not designed with modern comfort in mind. From nooks in alleyways merchants trade in wood for the pyres and all manner of other goods, young boys lead their water buffalos in to the river to cool down, women wash clothes at the edge of the ghatts while children play in the murky water. In the background the constant hum of Brahmins ministering to the faithful. At the beginning of a trip to India, Varanasi is very much the “deep end” and the best way to escape and still take as much as possible in, is by taking a boat ride along the river. As the background noise gives some way to the stillness out on the water there's an opportunity to contemplate and reflect on just how different this city is – how totally incomparable to anything in the Western world and how life and death can be in such close quarters.
For the hopelessly romantic or just plain curious, there is Agra. For first time visitors the Taj Mahal guarantees at least one surprise...the sheer enormity of the thing! At ground level, there is no lense wide enough to actually capture the scale of the complex which is not just limited to the white marble centrepiece. Even if you are not touched by the ultimate declaration of eternal love, its architecture and unaffected grandeur will certainly have you wondering how on earth such a masterpiece was constructed. But Agra has more to offer; there is the “Baby Taj” an earlier mausoleum on a much smaller scale but with equally impressive carvings and inlay work. The serene gardens surrounding the tomb make it the perfect place to just linger for a while and soak up atmosphere. The enormous Red Fort, partially open to the public and otherwise still in use by the army is another place to while away a few hours and enjoy the same views back towards to Taj Mahal that its creator would have enjoyed in his day.
The only downside to Agra – and being frank it is a downside – are the touts and hawkers that plague the surroundings of every monument. They take persistence to a whole other level and strong resolve and an equal amount of determination are definitely required. Nowhere more so than Fatehpur Sikri – the abandoned palace and city of red sandstone on the edge of Agra as you drive towards Jaipur. Another Mughal masterpiece, the city was barely inhabited before water supplies, or lack thereof, forced a retreat closer to the river. Almost perfectly preserved, its fascinating to imagine what life would have been like hundreds of years ago, or even today had water been plentiful enough.
We're delighted to be able to bring these three very different cities to our clients, and although we can technically add them on to any of our tours – THE NORTH provides 13 days packed with exploration and sumptuous luxury, without being too crammed. Perfectly orchestrated to minimise travelling time and include the real highlights of North India.
Click here to read the detailed itinerary and details of pricing for “off season” in September.

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