We happened to mention to Mr Singh, the owner of Deogarh Mahal our mission to explore the region further, heading in the direction of Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur. By the time we left, we had in our possession a detailed hand-drawn map of all the places that we simply should not miss along the way. It turned out to be one very important piece of paper!

We knew from previous visits that Kumbhalgarh, much like Ranakpur has the countryside that we're crazy about. This time however, we really seemed to enter hobbit country – something straight out of a Tolkien book.

The tiny valleys, completely enclosed by the hills are little oases of green and echoes of times long gone by. The fields are to small or inaccessible for tractors and plowing is still done with oxes. Wells with terracotta jugs on a big wooden wheel look the same way they did a hundred years ago as well as still having a useful function. Banana trees and date palm are abundant with fruit, and every where you look you see small houses glued to the sides of the hills, bordering imprecisely carved up fields of green below.


Kumbhalgarh is home to another of Rajasthan's mighty forts, this one with 36 km of ramparts. In fact the fortifications lay claim to being the worlds longest wall...after the Great Wall of China that is. These walls enclose not only the fort itself, but an improbable 300 Jain temples of varying sizes and states of repair.

From the top of the fort, with its strategic vantage point you can really appreciate the surrounding area as a whole. Mountains and hills, bathed in light and shadow form a very dramatic stage, dotted with the occasional dwelling or settlement. Perhaps unlike any other place in Rajasthan, from Kumbhalgarh fort, there's not a single piece of flat land to be seen, however far in to the distance you look.

If you've seen other forts in the state then this one isn't going to wow you with its interior, which is quite simple and bear. It's the exterior and the views that you have to come for. And as you look down you have to start imagining what it would be like to explore the vast lands that extend ahead of you on horseback - or even by foot.