We arrived in Bundi last night, slightly worn out after the early start (I'll say it again - yes, we actually saw a tiger) but still in high spirits. The journey was long, but we found enough energy to fit in Kota along the way and after visiting the royal museum one of the attendants took pity on us and brandishing a bunch of keys, bit by bit opened up the city palace allowing us our own private viewing. You have to bear in mind that it's low season right now and Kota isn't exactly top of list of places to visit for most people, so when you do show up at this time of year, you do get some odd looks.

The museum was packed with royal memorabilia and artefacts, and perhaps not the most interesting display, but it did condense a lot in to a small place. It was clear that at one stage in days gone by, the royal family of Kota was nearing the top of the hierarchy of Rajasthan's royalty.

The city palace itself though - entered through the glass palace (decorated with glass and mirrors) was quite something. Although much of it is gradually falling in to disrepair, there are some remarkably well preserved elements, including some of the finest wall paintings you're likely to come across in the entire state, especially those in what were the Maharajah's private rooms. Many of the rooms are closed off with metal railings (possibly to protect from mischievous monkies or to safeguard the gold and silver used in the artworks), and the light shut out by an odd collection of scruffy fabric hanging at the openings, and so you only gradually uncover the hidden treasures of the palace. Perhaps it's designed as part of the experience - but then again, perhaps not.

The complex of palace and fort extends much beyond what is accessible to visitors today, including the Jag Mandir. To appreciate the sum of it, you need to take a good look on the drive in - although you'd be forgiven for being distracted by the industrial landscape and the towering super thermal power plant which dominates the horizon. That's modern Kota for you, but with the Chambal river feeding the plant and a serious dam in place, it is one of the few places in Rajasthan where you're likely to see a large body of water.

The drive on to Bundi was another of our forays along the small (possibly uncharted, barely tarmac-ed) roads that took us out on to the plains where we experienced a first - the first time we'd had uninterrupted 360° views. No hills, mountains, trees - nothing. It was almost eerie, but still yet another facet to Rajasthan.

A dust storm prior to our arrival in Bundi meant that we had to content ourselves with dangling weary legs in the pool rather than going for a proper dip - but we didn't care. We'd seen a tiger and we were back in Bundi, life felt pretty good!