Karauli

Directly between the lavish City Palace in Jaipur and the breathtaking Taj Mahal in Agra it’s no wonder that the small town of Karauli often slips under the radar. It is however well known amongst Hindu devotees who undertake the ritual of Kanak Dandoti, whereby each pilgrim covers a distance of 15-20km by prostrating themselves, marking lines with their hands on the ground and then advancing to that mark only to prostrate themselves once again. With that in mind, this unsuspecting town built from pale red sandstone must have something special to offer.

Founded in 1348, Karauli is filled with magnificent temples, its most impressive being the Madan Mohanji Temple, dedicated to the revered Lord Krishna. The ancient rulers of the town, head of the Yadhuvanshi Rajputs are believed to be direct decedents of the god himself and so remain a prestigious bloodline. Their once heavily fortified town has lost much of its medieval glory, but what remains is still impressive to behold.

The main attraction of the town is the 600 year old fortified City Palace, which was occupied up until the 1950s by the royal family. Nowadays the only inhabitants are groups of audacious monkeys and geese who protect the grounds as if they were Rajputs themselves. A walk around these crumbling fortifications leads to the discovery of six tall gates and eleven posterns, each of which is a marvelous example of traditional Rajasthani architecture.

By rights, Karauli’s City Palace should be a prime tourist attraction, with its stone carvings, classic paintings and exquisite jali (stone lattice) work. But the reality is somewhat different, as many foreign visitors stick to the well-known and famous sights, blissfully unaware of Karauli’s former importance in the hierachy of Rajasthani royalty. It’s a serious concern, with much of Rajasthan trading on its rich heritage to bring in revenue, but a cause that has been taken up by the one-time rulers.

The Maharajah of Karauli still resides within the town and visitors can stay at his quirky museum-style hotel, Bhanwar Vilas Palace. His wife is the elected member of parliament for the area and a passionate campaigner for infrastructure, economic development and education. The Maharani’s motivation stretches well beyond just rank and her aim is to well and truly put Karauli on the map in a way that will be beneficial for the local community. Together with their family, they are the driving force behind the restoration of the City Palace, reviving traditonal crafts and engaging local artisans in an attempt to recreate the magnificence that once was - and of course attract more outsiders.

The active presence of the family in this way gives a rare insight into the interaction between the ‘aristocracy’ and lives of the local people.
Aside from its significant historical appeal, Karauli also comes to life for its unique socio-religious activities. Kaila Devi, the princess deity of Karauli is honoured by one of Rajasthan’s most important fairs which takes place in either March or April. Pilgrims from all over the state descend on her temple offering her sweets, coconuts and money and the climax of the event is a wonderfully chaotic evening of dancing, singing and general merriment. In February or March there is also a huge cattle fair where local farmers gather to sell camels, cows and buffalo in a tumultuous scene.

For those less inclined towards bovine purchases, a trip to the local bazaar is a great place to pick up local handmade goods such as the traditional Karauli bangles which are available in all colours of the spectrum.

Although Karauli may not yet have the more obvious appeal of some of the bigger cities it definitely is well worth the stop. If nothing else it gives you the welcome chance to stretch your legs en route and get a different perspective in a location crammed with Rajasthani history.