There are few things in this world that would incite me to get out of bed at 5.30am, especially after minimal sleep. But today was one of those rare occasions, and boy was it worth it. Yes, we were in Ranthambore National Park this morning - and Ranthambore means tigers. And yes, we actually saw one!

It's hard to imagine in advance what it might be like to be no more than 20m away from a wild tiger, with nothing between you but a a few bushes and a bit of dusty track. It's seems even more unlikely that this big cat will take a good long look at you, and rather than deciding it's lunch time, just go casually about its' business.

While it displays a studied level of nonchalance, you're left bedazzled by the whole experience in a way that you just don't get with the next door's ginger tom. The tiger in question was a two and a half year old female and the definition of feline cool. It felt like she was playing to her audience, first checking out the watering hole, testing the depth (even though she knows it well) and then backing in gracefully before enjoying a refreshing soak, one paw still firmly attached to a bit of terra firma - just in case. She drank, she washed, she made herself comfortable, and kept regular eye contact with those who were so fascinated they couldn't look anywhere else.

As an experience I think it was a bit beyond words - you really do have to see it and feel it. The safari around Ranthambore, especially when you have a limited window of opportunity is filled with anticipation, of preparing yourself for the inevitable disappointment of leaving without seeing one of these magnificent creatures. Some guides and drivers hare around the park, between watering holes and possible sightings - others have a more studied approach and let you take in the other wildlife - assorted deer, Sambhar (prime target for tigers), Black Buck, Blue Buck, Indian hares (which could have been mistaken for normal rabbits with very very long ears), Peacocks, Langurs and various birds. Again, the experience is very up-close-and-personal, so for photographers an absolute delight. You can read online many accounts of tourists departing Ranthambore (or Sariska for that matter) feeling let down and even cheated. There are no guarantees that you will see a tiger, but that's almost part of the fun. The rugged landscapes, the fast-paced jeep ride across rugged terrain, and the not so glamourous species are all worthy of a visit in their own right. The tiger is just the icing on the cake.

Back at the lodge (odd to stay in a former hunting lodge when visiting animals that have almost been hunted in to extinction) guests exchanged stories, including varying levels of success. We had only one morning to fit in one safari - there was a gentleman there who had been on no less than five and was still to spot a tiger.