09 August 2010
A picnic in Chak
For us, doing research and having fun often go together. And as we're constantly researching new destinations, sights and experiences, we get to have a lot of fun. Take our visit to Chak as an example...
Chak is a small village North-East of Jaipur and the family home of our assistant Kan. After many promises of going to visit, we finally settled on one leisurely Sunday afternoon. Of course no family visit is low key, and besides arranging horse riding through the local countryside there was mention of a picnic.
The horses were ready and waiting when we arrived at the village, which is actually just a short street, lined with small houses. Riding down to the family's farm house just outside the village we were followed by a bunch of kids, all calling out in the little English that they had been taught at school or picked up from TV. It was a warm welcome at the house, with flower garlands and 'village' chai (tea laced with ginger and black pepper) and meeting many of the male members of Kan's family. As we took in our surroundings, Kan's uncle worked in the background on fine embroidery for saris. Besides agriculture, Chak relies heavily on work in the textile industry and is particularly known for its embroidery.
The next part of the day we headed for the hills. Now that monsoon season is in full swing, the crops in the fields are growing rapidly and even the hills that are normally very dry and rocky, now display an abundance of green. It was a beautiful ride up and down the slopes, with shepherds watching over their flock, smiling and actig as living-signposts. Water buffalo, seemingly unaccustomed to horses stared intently before shifting to a safer distance. The horses, local Marwari, we extremely well behaved and despite being a little unsure of the rocky terrain (they're much more used to riding with tourists nearer to Jaipur) they got to grips with the new situation quite quickly.
Later we also took a ride along the nearby riverbed, which will require a lot heavier rains before it shows signs of reviving. So for us it was the ideal place to pick up a little speed and enjoy the exhilaration of passing through incredible scenery on horseback. Some families had decided to settle in makeshift houses on the riverbeds, colourful saris drying in the wind and children playing in sectioned off areas for animals. To describe this as idyllic would be a serious understatement.
Our stopping point for lunch was a dip between two hills, again completely green and the perfect spot for a picnic. Kan, his brothers, cousins and uncles prepared lunch, consisting of a rich meat curry, with rice and bati (chappati dough balls which are baked). Having prepared everything from scratch, on a makeshift stove of rocks, fueled by brush wood, it actually turned out to be one of the best meals we have had in a very long time. The meat was tender and juicy, the gravy a balanced mix of spices, onion and garlic... absolutely wonderful.
Kan is from a Rajput family, so even though they are Hindu the men are allowed to eat meat. However, they have to cook it themselves and are normally not allowed to use the normal home kitchen – so heading out in to the countryside is the best way of turning the whole thing in to an away-day.
There was laughter and a lot of chatting, a shepherd who looked as old as the hills joined the party and everyone gathered close as he broke in to choruses of the village song. Even the teenagers seemed particularly engaged in the whole event, no doubt eagerly awaiting their turn to smoke a traditional tobacco pipe (strong stuff!), and sample the home-brewed Rajasthani wine. For now they contented themselves with watching and learning. We passed up on the chance of trying the Rajasthani wine, it smelled floral but strong like jet fuel so we thought it wise to save that experience for another occasion.
On the last part of our journey we headed back in to the village on motorbikes to meet Kan's mother and see the village house in the village (rather than the one outside the village...) where the women of the family stay. At the far end of the village, it had amazing views of the hills and to the front a large courtyard area where they stable and milk the water buffalo. Kan says his 'joined' family, living together is maybe 40 people in total...but I guess when you grow up surrounded by aunts, uncles, cousins and grandparents all living in the same space, you don't really keep count!
For us it was a perfect day in Rajasthan. Away from the city and understanding more about life in the countryside. The simplicity and the complex family relationships and traditional values. The sense of pride that people here have is truly great, and this makes the welcome that they give you very special indeed. Even where language is a barrier to real conversation, you get the point. For us it was a real privilege.
Being only 60 kilometres away from Jaipur, life in the village will no doubt start to change – as younger generations (like Kan) go off to study and then work in the city. But strong family ties and knowing your roots seems to be the key keeping these rural communities alive. For now in Chak the old men will continue to play cards in the street, the womenfolk will sweep the yards and milk the goats... life will continue untroubled by the world around it.
- Tags: chak, outdoors, picnic, rajasthan, village life

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